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The economic crisis goes on in Italy for the fourth consecutive year; factories are
closing down but new restaurants are springing up continuously. Exports of food
products are rising while tourism ( Italy’s petroleum) industry is flourishing.
Who can resist the temptation of delicious Italian food ? The best proof is the
luxurious sea food restaurant located in the center of Rome near the hideout of
Mussolini that was recently opened to visitors after being closed since the end of
the world war II. Its owner did not choose a humorous name for his restaurant as
some do in Italy such as “ little bear” or “ Pepe & his cheese” “ or “ Lead us dancer”
or “ The golden donkey”. The full name of this restaurant is “ Eleonora d’Arborea”.
Some may think it is the name of the owner’s mother or aunt, but in reality it is the
name of a distinguished lady from the island of Sardinia that is well known in Italy.
Those familiar with history know that she fought in the Middle Ages for the
independence of the island. She was born in 1347 in the city of Oristano in Sardinia
near an old Phoenician village, and lived until the age of 57 . A statute in her
memory has been installed in the city center depicting her carrying a legal
document. She worked as a famous judge in Sardinia in that period, and ruled the
island after her brother was killed. Nowadays we see her image on many food
products produced in Sardinia.
The restaurant offers selections of the delicious cuisine of Sardinia known for its fish
and exquisite sea food, cheeses made from sheep’s milk and sweets mixed with
almonds and honey. I met the polite energetic young owner Francesco Tornu, 34
years old who comes from a village in Sardinia near Oristano. I asked him : how did
you succeed in making your place one of the best sea food restaurants in Rome? He
replied without hesitation “ fresh products, Mediterranean fish, and the feeling of
the customer that he is relaxed as if he is at home”. Francesco stated managing
Eleonora 9 years ago although the restaurant originally opened in 1997 when
Romans seriously began to get interested in sea food and Italian regional cuisines.
Francesco recalls working in his father’s coffee shop in Sardinia, and loved his job
because it allowed him to meet new people and mix with the clients, some of which
were important people. I asked him if after his success in Rome, he would be
interested in repeating his achievement elsewhere. He replied confidently with a
smile “ Sure, I would also like to work in London or New York “. I then leaned that his
wife, Sally Jarocki, is American from Pittsburgh in Pennsylvania State, and that she is
enchanted by Italian food. His favorite dish is , obviously, Sardinian called “
bottarga” which includes eggs of salted dried tuna or “mugene” fish. It is added to
pasta recipes or eaten as an appetizer. The Italian name is an adaptation of the
Arabic “ batrakh” بطرخ It is believed that the Phoenicians who came from the Syrian
coast and Lebanon inhabited Sardinia for a long period thousands of years ago, and
invented this product that resembles caviar. Later the Arabs who were well known
for using the right technique and dosage of salt to preserve certain food products
perfected the methodology.
I told Francesco that I’ve noticed that he serves several types of Mediterranean fish
that other restaurants do not use. They presenting usually offer sea bass ( spigola or
branzino in Italian) or sea bream ( orata). Francesco pointed out that the other
species are as delicious but preferred that the Chef gives his explanation. The
talented cook joined our conversation. He is known for his artistry and secret
technique in using the ideal temperature for roasting different types of fish thus
fully extracting their flavors to the utmost. The surprise was that his name is Iqbal
Hilal , originally from Bangladesh and a naturalized Italian after living in Italy for 22
years and gathering immense experience in methods of cooking the Italian way. He
comes from a country known for its attachment to sea food: it exports a lot of it, it is
famous for its fiery fish dishes with “ duiaja” at the top of the list where they add
shrimps to large white fish cooked curry style with clarified butter. Iqbal graduated
from Dacca University (capital of Bangladesh) in political science, then focused his
attention on his favorite hobby, cooking. He excelled in this field and became
professional. In Italy he avoids using spicy and complicated mixtures, except
sometimes for black or hot red pepper . His nick name here is “Baldo “ to make it
easier for Italians to pronounce the name. His wife is also from Bangladesh, and they
have 2 daughters that were born in Rome. That is why he is an ardent supporter of
the Roma football team. He emphasized that he personally chooses the selection of
fresh fish he is going to prepare every day for lunch or dinner. Some are suitable as
raw fish to be marinated in a mixture of lemon juice and virgin olive oil, while others
taste better as grilled or steamed. Iqbal explains “ It is important to choose the fish
carefully, and be sure it is really fresh, while knowing its source of origin and who
transported by plane it to Rome . For example, the best lobster comes from the
island of Sardinia, but the crab is best from Sicily. Royal jumbo shrimps comes from
other sources. The critical factor is that the product is fresh and was not exposed to
any kind of freezing. This is the secret of the success of the delightful Sardinian
cuisine as far as taste and healthy nutrition are concerned.
The menu of Eleonora is full of sea food dishes such as salmon mixed with orange
juice and pieces, sea shells cooked in vapor with a dash of Bottarga, shrimps with
black or costly white truffles. First course could be rice with shrimps and zucchini
flowers, fettucini with squid (calamari) and zafaran, or ravioli with sea bass fish and
green mint, or simple spaghetti with bottarga. Second course, for Italian style dinner
has a wide range of choice among various types of fish: rombo, ricci, yellowtail tuna,
and many others like the usual sea bass, or sea bream. For those who prefer meat
there is always a good piece of tender fillet. Dessert includes specialties that are
only found in Sardinia using crushed almonds and blended with honey, similar to
Moroccan pastries. For those who prefer a light desert after consuming fish you
could have a type of semi-frozen lemonade or what they call Italian sorbetto
(definitely the origin comes from the Arabic: sharab شراب )
The décor and atmosphere in Eleonora is comfortable and elegant without
pretention. Service is the top of the line, and you get the feeling that everybody is
working hard as a team and enjoying welcoming guests without exaggeration or
false smiles while serving them as if they were close friends. Credit goes to
Francesco for good management and understanding between the chef and his staff
and the waiters. He maintains the team spirit efficiently with his kind and firm
attitude and concern about every detail without interfering in the work of his
colleagues. Price of an average full meal is about 50 – 60 euros ( or $ 62) which is a
relatively a good bargain compared to the quality of the food. Surprisingly, this
would be almost half the price of other similar high level sea food restaurants in
Rome.
This unique experience with Sardinian cuisine may create in you some curiosity
about this beautiful island in the center of the Mediterranean that witnessed so
many invaders who left their imprint and influence. First were the Phoenicians,
prominent in history as merchants and colonizers, followed by the Romans. Later,
the Republics of Genoa and Pisa (known for its leaning tower) were competing for s
control of the strategic island. The Arabs then the Spaniards came after them. Finally
the Italians ruled by the Savoy family that united Italy more than 150 years ago
included Sardinia in the union. Many decades passed and the famous local cheeses a
were not known even to other provinces in Italy. People had forgotten the beauty,
pleasures of life and the distinguished cuisine of the isolated island. It remained
marginalized until it was rediscovered again more than 40 years ago. One of the
famous admirers of the place and its culinary richness was Prince Karim Agha Khan
who invested heavily in tourism and drew the attention of the world to this
wonderful area and its attractive beaches and well preserved natural environment.
One of the most renowned superchefs in Italy, the German Heinz Beck, working in “
La Pergola” in Rome wonders in his book “The Secret Ingredient” where he asks, “
What is luxury ? Eating is a necessity, but for those who cook every day, luxury is
transforming eating into joy”.
Eleonora d’Arborea – Corso Trieste, 23 (off Via Nomentana) – Tel. 39 06 44250943
