Carolina Herrera wraps Fashion Week in fur

NEW YORK, Prune Perromat and Brigitte Dusseau- New York may be shivering in the snow and icy rain, but Carolina Herrera's fur-lined autumn-winter 2013 collection brought elegant warmth to Fashion Week on Monday.
At 74, the Venezuelan-American designer is one of the grande dames of the New York fashion world. However, her catwalk show, which opened with model Karlie Kloss in a long silk dress with a velvet collar, showed she was still on top of her game.

Photo by: Christopher Peterson. Accessed via Wikipedia.
Photo by: Christopher Peterson. Accessed via Wikipedia.
Shoulders were slightly lifted, silk dresses fell to the floor, and collars sometimes appeared in amethyst-colored fox fur. In fact, fur was everywhere: on belts, sleeves, coats, and dresses, sometimes in brown, but also green or red.
Composer Tom Hodge, who provided music for the Lincoln Center show, "retook the Kreutzer, Beethoven's sonata for violin and piano, which is one of my favorites, and he rearranged it for the show," Herrera told AFP.
The result, "Capriccio for Carolina," matched the clothes, or perhaps it was the other way around.
"I was inspired especially by this piece of music," Herrera said. "That's why everything at the beginning was very light and then it is going into a crescendo" -- into glamour, satins and color.
Along with the Beethoven-inspired elegance were accents from the 1940s, with "a tiny waist, and the shoulders, and the movement of the skirts. All the dresses move a little bit," she explained.
It's for "the woman of today who likes to be dressed up... Women are sometimes afraid of being called elegant or glamorous."
Later Monday, trend-setter Marc Jacobs was set to make his first outing of fashion week with the show for his Marc by Marc Jacobs diffusion line, a precursor to his main event on Thursday.
Late Sunday, Zac Posen, a favorite of Hollywood A-listers who recently launched a contemporary wear line, was able to indulge in his bent for sculptural, red-carpet-ready dresses.
The show at the luxury Plaza Hotel was aimed at the "unconventional woman who enjoys and flourishes in the codes, the historical codes of luxury," he said.
Women wearing his clothes should feel "the regality of femininity, the beauty of it," he said, praising the "individual woman. She's strong, she's powerful, but yet feminine."
After Victoria Beckham's show on Sunday, there was another whiff of British style on the catwalks with Tommy Hilfiger's women's collection, which the fashion house described as "Savile Row meets Ivy League."
Hilfiger, known for a decidedly preppy collegiate look, sent out a winter line of mini-skirts, double-breasted coats and short jackets, all made of Prince of Wales or houndstooth check.
New York Fashion Week, which runs through Thursday, features more than 300 shows and presentations of autumn-winter collections for 2013-14.
It is the start of a month-long style marathon, with shows in London, Milan and Paris to follow.

Tuesday, February 12th 2013
Prune Perromat and Brigitte Dusseau

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